Quince and Golden Plum Tart
A choice autumnal sweet based on two favorite North Arlene fruits
- Background
- Notes on quinces and Mirabelles
Spicery has long been at the heart of North Arlene politics, economics and cuisine, and this recipe evokes all three. Besides the presence of cinnamon, allspice and cloves—all grown on or near the Peninsula, and traded in bulk to the more southerly realms for generations—the fruits are also regionally typical, and (due to the warm northern climate) tend to come into season together, lending themselves naturally to treatments like this.
The North Arlene quince (Arl./N.Arl. kahmdeit, “stone-apple”) is an almost exact congener to our own Earth’s Cydonia oblonga. In the North Arlene subtropical climate, always so hospitable to both stoned and soft fruits, the quince—which no one in their right mind could ever consider a “soft fruit”—routinely starts coming to ripeness well before the First of Summer. Around then boatloads of it are already making their way down the rivers Arlid, Darst and Stel to major and minor city markets, destined to be turned into confectionery and sweets, added to jams and tracklements, and incorporated into various savoury dishes (such as the well known southern Arlene meat-and-fruit stews).
Less well known is how significant a portion of the quince harvest from the half-wild orchard region in the vicinity of the Eorlhowe makes its way southward to a distilling family based near Durhênded, there to become the basis of a uniquely spiced, sweet-and-sharp-fragranced quince liquor called Leineidhekh (N.Arl. “final [golden] flower”). Its makers, the tai-Emuinlê clan, are one of the last remnants of the feuding “spice families” whose generation-spanning enmity contributed to the downfall of the North Arlene Crown, as set out in the Enedhwáilion lay-cycle. Because of this the liquor is routinely described as “cursed”… though that appears not to particularly harm its popularity, or its sales.*
The other fruit involved in this tart is the local equivalent to the sweet golden plum often called “Mirabelle” in our Earth’s central Europe (Prunus domestica subsp. syriaca). All across the northern reaches of the Kingdoms, this plum is known by its Darthene name alledekh, “gold nugget.” Distinguished among plums for its unusual sweetness, the golden plum marries perfectly with the almost floral, honeyed flavor of the cooked quince to produce a beautifully balanced sweet.
Over time, variants of the recipe have developed that add the flavors of local wines or liqueurs to the mix. This version follows a recipe thought to have originated seveal centuries back in the great public kitchens of the Arlene royal castle Kynall. In this variant, the quince—already baked once to make it slightly softer and less recalcitrant to deal with—is simmered for an hour or so in a local white wine (and picks up its characteristic rosy “cooked” tinge) before being introduced to the plum slices and put into a pastry case. The use of a dark brown sugar to develop the juices of the plums, however, immediately reconfirms the sweet’s North Arlene origins as something devised in or near the Peninsula’s coastline “sugaring country.”
See the recipe card below for the ingredients and method.
*Once a year the tai-Emuinlê send a cask of their quince distillate to Prydon as a “peppercorn” tribute to the Throne of Arlen. In a traditional comment on political difficulties now more than a thousand years past, the Throne’s occupant immediately ceremonially repudiates this offering in the manner that suits them best—pouring the liquor into the Arlid having been a past favorite. (The current occupant of the Throne apparently now makes a habit of promptly forwarding the gifted firkin to Dariw of Steldin. However, song-sheet rumors that in the first year of his rulership King Freelorn had a painted sugar-plate and almond-paste effigy of his head packed into the cask along with the booze are, to date, unconfirmed.)
About quinces and cooking with them:
If (speaking as a cook) you don’t know much about quinces, you wouldn’t at all be in a minority. For a fruit with such a broad growing range, it’s a bit weird not to see it more often.
That said, quinces are not the kind of fruit you’re normally likely to see in your average supermarket, as their quirks render them moderately uncommercial. Their seasonality is limited—they’re pretty much only available between September and mid-November. They’re also kind of irregular and knobbly-looking. But most to the point, they’re not a really friendly fruit to work with. They are bitter and astringent enough, when raw, that they can’t really be eaten. (And if you insist on trying, beware: the raw fruit’s sky-high tannin levels are likely to make you choke.) Additionally, they’re as hard as rocks. Even at their ripest, you could use them as weapons.
The flavor of quinces, though, once cooked, is unique: somehow both sweet and tart, warm and fragrant, almost a touch floral. (Maybe it’s their relationship to the Rosaceae.) They turn a delightful rosy color when they’re cooked. And they’re extremely valuable as an ingredient, especially in jams and jellies, since their pectin content is seriously higher than that of apples. So if you can find ways of dealing with their rock-hardness and other annoying qualities, quinces are worth going out of your way to find. We had to go to the central-European grocers nearest to us in Dublin, Polonez and Moldova, both of which had quinces on hand at time of writing.
You may want to make some inquiries among stores in your area that are good with fruit. Or perhaps there’s a fruit grower not far from you who can suggest a source. Quinces grow successfully across a broad range of climate zones: they’re hardy (for example) to Zones 4-5 on the USDA hardiness map. So look around and see what you can find out about their availability in your locality. (Also, here’s an interesting article about quinces from the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service.)
Meanwhile, at the cooking end of things: the best way to deal with that annoying rock-hardness—as in this recipe—is simply to bake the quinces, whole and in their skins, at 180C/375F. for half an hour to forty-five minutes. When they’ve cooled, they can be cut a lot more easily. The rest of the work of preparing them simply involves peeling them and cutting out the fruit’s hard grainy core.
About Mirabelle plums:
Because the Mirabelle has an EU/French Protected Origin Designation, its availability outside the EU is rare. So you should feel free to substitute whatever yellow (or indeed pink, red or purple) plum you like and can acquire.
In the UK, though Mirabelles can be found, they’re not exactly widely avauilable; so UK readers might want to look for plums like the Yellow Pershore, the Jefferson, or the Oullins Gage.
In North America, there’s tendency for yellow plums in general to be sold just as that—”yellow”—without varietal names. So as regards choices, you’re on your own.
Quince and Golden Plum Tart
4-6
servings3
hours40-50
minutesA choice autumnal sweet based on two favorite North Arlene fruits
Ingredients:
- Filling ingredients
- 2
Quinces, approximately 300g each
- 4-6
Mirabelle plums, approximately 300g total
- 2 tablespoons
Dark brown sugar
- 150-200 ml
White wine
- 2 tablespoons
Cornstarch/corn flour
- 2 tablespoons
Cold water
- 1 stick
Cinnamon
- 2 whole
Cloves
- Several small grinds / grates
Nutmeg
- 2 whole
Allspice berries (optional)
- Two-crust shortcrust pastry ingredients
- 125 grams
Plain flour
- 125 grams
Whole wheat / wholemeal flour
- 75 grams
Butter (cold, cubed)
- 75 grams
Lard (cold)
- 80-100 milliliters
Very cold water
- 2 large pinches
Salt
Directions
The first thing to do is to deal with your quinces.
Place them on a small baking sheet (or in a cake pan or whatever else is convenient) and preheat the oven to 180C / 375F.
Bake them for at least 30 minutes. We baked ours for 45 minutes, to soften them a little further. Their skins will darken during baking, which is fine.
Remove them from the oven and let them cool completely.
Once they're cool, quarter them and cut out their gritty seed capsules. (Don't be surprised if this takes a bit of work. Even partially-cooked quince can be tough fruit to work with.)
Then peel them and cut them into smaller and/or thinner chinks or slices.
Put the chopped/sliced quinces into a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a lid, and pour the white wine over them. (You can, if you prefer, use water or a fruit juice instead—apple juice would work. But wine does something special to bring out the flavor of the quince.)
Add the cinnamon stick, cloves (stick them into pieces of fruit so you can find them later) and allspice berries (if using them) to the saucepan. Bring the contents to a boil, and then immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cover the pot. Allow to simmer for 45 minutes to an hour, until the quinces are tender. They will probably also begin acquiring their rosy "cooked" color during this process.
While the quinces and spices are simmering, halve the plums (whether Mirabelles or other yellow plums, or even purple ones) and remove the pits. Cut the halves into smaller slices.
Put the sliced-up plums in a bowl and toss them with the brown sugar. While waiting for the quinces to finish cooking, stir and toss the plums well with the sugar every now and then to help their juices run.
When the quinces have finished cooking, remove them from the heat, remove the whole spices, and allow everything to cool. When cooled, pour off and reserve any of the reduced white wine (or other liquid) remaining in the pot.
This is the time when you should prepare your pastry.
If you like, you can use a standard two-crust shortcrust pastry recipe of your choice to line a tart or flan pan/tin. The one we used for the most basic version of this recipe is a 10-inch / 25cm pan with a removable bottom.
if you're using the pastry recipe included with this one: Combine the flours and salt, and cut the fats into them with a pastry blender or using the steel blade of a food processor until the mixture looks like fine crumbs. Then add the water until the pastry just comes together into a ball, and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes before rolling it out.
Here's how the tart pan looks lined with the wholemeal shortcrust pastry.
if you prefer, you can use a rough-puff wholemeal puff pastry. as would be typical if this sweet was being served in a Realms-based tavern or similar hostelry. (Some of our images in the slider above show this treatment.) Our recipe for a Kingdoms-typical wholemeal rough-puff pastry, along with instructions on handling the rolling and turning necessary for a laminated dough, is here.
Having divided your pastry dough into two pieces—one for the bottom crust, one for the top—and lined the tart pan with pastry, put the cooked quince slices/pieces into the lined pan first. Then, on top of them, add the plum and brown sugar mixture.
Then mix together the cornstarch/cornflour and the cold water. Stir into this mixture whatever liquid was reserved from the cooking of the quinces. Then pour this cornstarch, water and cooking liquid mixture over the fruit in the pastry case.
Once this is done, roll out the pastry for the top crust and seal it onto the tart by gently pinching it around the edges. Cut slits into the top of it for the filling to vent through as it bakes.
Bake the tart at 180C / 375F for 40-45 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. Remove from the oven to a cooling rack and allow to settle for at least half an hour before serving.
And enjoy!
Fruit, pastry, sweets, desserts, pies
SuperValu, Polonez, Moldova